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Bushing Set for Hand Cannelure Tool
 
Bushing Set for Hand Cannelure Tool Quantity in Basket: None
Catalog No.: HCT-BUSH
Price: $12.00
Shipping Weight: 0.05 pounds
 
Optional Note:
 
Quantity:
 
This is a pair of solid bearings or bushings which press-fit into the top section of the HCT-1, HCT-2, or HCT-3 cannelure, knurling, or grooving tools. They support the crank shaft, on which is mounted the embossing or cannelure wheel (or knurling wheel, or grooving wheel, depending on which tool version is used).

Generally we recommend returning the tool for service if the bearings should wear to the point where the crankshaft is not solidly supported. But very early tools used to be made with a rolled boss created from punching the holes and did not have any bearings. These older models benefit from having the holes enlarged to accept bushings, which are then press-fit into the precisely aligned, reamed holes.

The bearings have a bore of 1/4-inch, an over-all length of about .312 or 5/16 inch, and a head diameter of about .468 inches. The diameter of the part which fits into the mounting hole is 0.376 inches. A 3/8-inch hole (.375) can be lightly reamed to create a press-fit. A good way to insert the bearings is to put a 1/4-inch diameter rod through them to keep them aligned, and press them with the head on the inside of the U-shaped upper arm of the tool. This means pressing from the inside, toward the outside, so that the head comes flush against the inside surface of the upper arm.

bushings A good way to do this is to make a screw-driven jig with a 1/4-inch diameter bolt or screw, with 1/4 x 28 threads, with a cup similar to a socket wrench that goes over the 3/8-in plus end of the bushing without touching it, and bears against the outside surface of the upper arm. The assembly consists of a screw, two washers and a nut plus this cup-shaped part which you might need to machine, or temporarily use a socket wrench end as a makeshift arbor.

To insert the bushing, first put a washer on the screw. Then slide the bushing over the screw so that the larger end (the head) contacts the washer. Insert the screw, washer and bushing through one of the crankshaft holes which has been prepared to accept the press fit bushing. The screw head, washer and bushing are on the inside of the U-shaped arm. The screw needs to be short enough so you can get it through the hole and long enough so that your cup arbor (or socket wrench head) will allow enough thread length to come through so you can install a washer and a nut.

With the washer and nut threaded onto the screw, the cup arbor now presses on the OD of the upper arm. The bushing is aligned and ready to push into the hole when you tighten the nut. A little light grease on the bushing OD, and the washer that bears against the nut, will help reduce force. Tighten the nut as you watch and guide the bushing so it does not try to go at an angle. The depth of the cup needs to be sufficient so that the .245 length (less the thickness of the arm material) of the bushing can clear it. When the head of the bushing comes flush to the inside surface, you have done the job. Unscrew the nut, remove the washer and cup arbor, and remove the screw. It's a good idea to make sure that the screw length is short enough so it will in fact come out at this point, before actually installing the bushing!

If this sounds too complicacted, just return your cannelure tool for repair instead of ordering the bushings. There are other ways to install a bushing, of course. Or if you get them and then decide not to install them yourself you can send them back with the tool, and we can install them for you for a minimum cost of about 1/2 hour shop time and return shipping.

Please note that if you make the holes just a little too large, so that the bushings will not stay in place, a drop of Loc-Tite or even regular epoxy glue will usually do the trick. The force on them is mostly toward the side (radial), not end to end (lateral), so they are likely to work fine even if not as snugly press-fit as we'd recommend.






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